"simpler designs create fewer complications." by Eric Dacus

Via Alpinist.com http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12f/wfeature-eckenstein 

engineering drawing of a crampon

Technical diagrams of Eckenstein’s crampons from a 1909 follow-up article in the Oesterreischische Alpenzeitung.

Really cool to see the perspective of a climber and designer from the late 1890-1900’s. A lot of his thoughts on design and climbing still hold:

12. Three-part crampons are entirely worthless. The middle points are always shaky and poor for balance, and they don’t follow the designer’s creed that “simpler designs create fewer complications.”

Engineering drawings look much the same over a 100 years later: 

1 to 1 makes for better reviewing

by Eric Dacus

Really cool interview with Jack Dorsey, founder of Twitter. 

"We have a lot of focus, we have this desire to build not just what’s needed, but what we want. Its great for engineers to build what they want to see in the world."

by Eric Dacus

Partnership

Last weekends trip to Indian Creek was one of the best in a long while. Because its “early season” (read too warm) it felt like the whole valley was empty. Polly and I had the 4x4 wall completely to ourselves on Friday. Usually, because of all the gear required, these trips are with a lot of people, and it was really different to climb with just Polly there. 

Good partners make all the difference and are more important to me than any route or mountain I might “send”. 

Greg and Liz joined us for Saturday and Sunday and we found more good climbs in the shade and few other folks. 

Finding the feet

First crux of Way Rambo

Great lead by Liz

Good jams

by Eric Dacus

At that point, I had already internalized this idea that it didn’t matter whether an artist is called an artist, or a designer, or illustrator, or whatever else it was. The core value was always the act of making things, and the transformation of an idea that you hold in your mind that becomes real or material. That to me still is the glory of any creative activity.
— Milton Glaser from To Inform & Delight
http://idsgn.org/posts/informed-and-delighted/

Climbing dawn patrol by Eric Dacus

5:15am and the alarm goes off, sleep in till 5:30. Get up. Okay, time to move. Dawn patrol’s never start out fun, but by the first pitch of climbing or first ski turn, the earlier-than-usual start to the day is always worth it. 

Up to the switchover

The arete pitch

Under the moon

Lone Peak by Eric Dacus

We woke up to clear skis and a chill morning, and waited until the sun was on our route to start up. 

Starting up

Eric leading pitch 2

Climbing alpine granite in the sun is really hard to beat. Then the clouds came back. 

Traversing

Moving in

More rain (that didn’t hit, but we bailed too early to know that. Mark, Eric and Alex continued up)

Bummer, its empty

Bummer, its empty. Not enough of a very tasty chicken vindaloo backcountry dinner. 

Lone Peak Cirque

Power Gas

Friends, tea and sunset

Saturday's weather by Eric Dacus

We were planning to hike up to Lone Peak, set up camp and fire a short route on Saturday. The weather had other plans, and we had to pay our dues on the 50% chance of precip. 

Cloud line

The low cloud line should have been our first warning. 

guy line

raining

A break in the rain and the collective psych picked back up. We were able to hike up to the cirque dry, get the tents up and eat dinner before the clouds and rain socked back in.

Psyched the rain stopped

Back in the sun!

Clouds moving back in

The cirque is here somewhere

The cirque is here somewhere… more clouds and rain followed.