"simpler designs create fewer complications." /
Via Alpinist.com http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12f/wfeature-eckenstein
Technical diagrams of Eckenstein’s crampons from a 1909 follow-up article in the Oesterreischische Alpenzeitung.
Really cool to see the perspective of a climber and designer from the late 1890-1900’s. A lot of his thoughts on design and climbing still hold:
12. Three-part crampons are entirely worthless. The middle points are always shaky and poor for balance, and they don’t follow the designer’s creed that “simpler designs create fewer complications.”
Engineering drawings look much the same over a 100 years later:
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Really cool interview with Jack Dorsey, founder of Twitter.
"We have a lot of focus, we have this desire to build not just what’s needed, but what we want. Its great for engineers to build what they want to see in the world."
Another good Creek weekend /
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Ruth Lake /
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Last weekends trip to Indian Creek was one of the best in a long while. Because its “early season” (read too warm) it felt like the whole valley was empty. Polly and I had the 4x4 wall completely to ourselves on Friday. Usually, because of all the gear required, these trips are with a lot of people, and it was really different to climb with just Polly there.
Good partners make all the difference and are more important to me than any route or mountain I might “send”.
Greg and Liz joined us for Saturday and Sunday and we found more good climbs in the shade and few other folks.
The start of fall /
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Climbing dawn patrol /
Lone Peak /
We woke up to clear skis and a chill morning, and waited until the sun was on our route to start up.
Climbing alpine granite in the sun is really hard to beat. Then the clouds came back.
More rain (that didn’t hit, but we bailed too early to know that. Mark, Eric and Alex continued up)
Bummer, its empty. Not enough of a very tasty chicken vindaloo backcountry dinner.
Saturday's weather /
We were planning to hike up to Lone Peak, set up camp and fire a short route on Saturday. The weather had other plans, and we had to pay our dues on the 50% chance of precip.
The low cloud line should have been our first warning.
A break in the rain and the collective psych picked back up. We were able to hike up to the cirque dry, get the tents up and eat dinner before the clouds and rain socked back in.
Back in the sun!
The cirque is here somewhere… more clouds and rain followed.